MILTON KEYNES
BRANCH
THE CANALS OF MILTON KEYNES
History The Route Pubs Services Shopping Boat Hire Stoppages
Today there is only one, the Grand Union Canal from the Iron Trunk aqueduct over the river Great Ouse in the North to just north of Marsworth Junction. The Newport Pagnell Branch from Linford Wharf closed as long ago as 1864 to make way for the Wolverton to Newport Pagnell Railway, but the future looks good for adding more, with the Bedford and Milton Keynes Waterway scheduled to be ready for cruising by the end of the decade.
Going back over 200 years, Milton Keynes was a small village on the opposite side of the canal from the new city. It has been a small village since medieval times, being mentioned in the Domesday Book, but is now known as Milton Keynes Village to avoid confusion! The first major development in the area since Norman times came from the decision taken at a meeting in a hotel in Stony Stratford (now part of Milton Keynes) in June 1792 to construct the Grand Junction Canal. The Duke of Buckingham was a major player in the venture, being a prime mover at the inaugural meeting and a very substantial investor in the project. The Grand Junction Canal Act was passed by Parliament in April 1795 and progress was rapid. The original plans and surveys had been prepared by James Barnes, who had got in some practice by surveying the Kennet & Avon Canal. It was his plans that were passed, but William Jessop was appointed as principal engineer when it came to construction and James Barnes had to make do with being the resident engineer.
By 1797 the route was open from Fenny Stratford to London but it was not until 1800 that the first Ouse Aqueduct was opened (replacing temporary flights of locks down to the river and back up again) and then in 1805 Blisworth Tunnel was opened, completing the route to Braunston. The Ouse Aqueduct lasted until 1808 when it collapsed, the debris blocking the River Great Ouse and threatening Stony Stratford with a major flood. In the event the flood did not happen, the river finding a way around the blockage. The replacement iron aqueduct was not completed until 1811 but has fortunately lasted better than the first one. During construction the navigation was kept open by re-commissioning the original temporary locks.
The Grand Junction was a great success of its day, cutting 60 miles from the journey from the Midlands, via the Oxford Canal and the Thames, to London. Traces of old wharves can be seen at Water Eaton, Fenny Stratford, Simpson and Linslade, the one at Woughton being swallowed up into housing development.
Skip to 1929 when the Grand Junction Canal and others were purchased by the Regent's Canal and the Grand Union was born. In the mid 1930's a major upgrade was undertaken and it remained a busy waterway right through to the killer winter of 1962. This was the beginning of the end of a commercial waterway and the start of a new leisure industry.
History The Route Pubs Services Shopping Boat Hire Stoppages
MARSWORTH TO LEIGHTON BUZZARD (8 miles, 11 locks, 1 swing bridge)
Travelling North, we enter our patch at Bridge 130 (MP 54), second bridge past the entrance to the Aylesbury Arm. Up on the right is the garden of the Red Lion and on the left is an attractive thatched canalside house that for many years was a shop much used by boaters for essentials - bread, beer, that sort of thing - as well as painted ware and books and so on out the back. Woe betide anyone who tried to moor there for longer than it took to do the shopping. Once we get to the two bottom locks of the Marsworth flight we are in open country that will stay with us for good while. Around a long bend and we pass Dunstable and District Boat Club (AWCC affiliated) and we then arrive at Pitstone Wharf. This is the base of the wide beam trip boats you may have encountered on the journey from Marsworth, and all services are available here. A mile or so up the road is Cheddington Station, operated by Silverlink Trains County service between London Euston and Birmingham via Watford, Milton Keynes, Northampton, Rugby and Coventry.
Through the 'S' bends, we then pass through a long skew arched bridge under the West Coast Main Line with Virgin trains up above going rather faster than we are. Ahead you will see a small manually operated swing bridge. A job for the boys this one, and operated from the non-towpath side of course. Just ahead again is the first of the three Seabrook locks, and here you will see disused side ponds and disused engine houses that once housed pumping engines for the back-pumping scheme of their day. In recent years BW have installed small electric pumps to do the same job, after the drought years of the late nineties. At a lot of the locks on this section you can see remains of the old single locks alongside the double chamber - the twin arched tail bridges are more evidence. And don't miss the Whipsnade White Lion up on Dunstable Downs whilst passing through Slapton and Horton, both small villages a mile or so away from the canal.
Church Lock is in a particularly pleasant setting alongside the old churchyard and what used to be the smallest church in Buckinghamshire, now a private house. On to Grove Lock, where BW recently undertook a refurbishment of the derelict lock cottage into a public house. Out of the lock we are in the Leighton Buzzard pound, with the town centre a mile or so further along. Passing under the derelict railway bridge of the old Leighton Buzzard to Dunstable, Luton and Hatfield railway, we enter the Linslade end of the town. The water point is just by the bricked up entrance to the old dock, opposite Brantons Wharf, and just round the corner there is a Tesco canalside, and the town is the first chance to do real shopping since Berkhamsted. Silverlink Trains operate services at the station here. Plenty of visitor moorings, though some are limited to two hours for shopping.
The Wyvern Shipping base is just past the visitor moorings on the offside, followed shortly by Leighton Lock, sponsored and kept clean and tidy and freshly painted by Wyvern.
LEIGHTON BUZZARD TO FENNY STRATFORD (8 miles, 6 locks)
Once through Leighton Lock we are back to open countryside, with the railway for company off and on, and the classic canalside Globe Inn only five minutes from the lock. After half an hour or so is Soulbury with its short flight of three locks and the Three Locks pub alongside the middle one. Plenty of onlookers here, and there's a water point at the bottom of the flight.
Shortly after Stoke Hammond Lock, the remotest lock in our area, is Willowbridge boatyard where all services are available as well as general chandlery, and then we start to see typical Milton Keynes canalscape, with tall trees separating the towpath from a cycleway. Passing through Water Eaton we approach Fenny Stratford passing under the Bletchley to Bedford railway, the last remaining vestige of the Oxford to Cambridge cross-country railway. until 2006 the line was an anachronism in this day and age, with crossing keepers manning manual gates, outside lever frames, semaphore signalling and delightful country station buildings or wooden platform halts. But "improvements" have taken place and most of these features have now been consigned to history. The railway follows Marston Vale, as will the Bedford and Milton Keynes Waterway. Fenny Stratford station is close by the lock.
FENNY STRATFORD TO WOLVERTON (10 miles, no locks)
The start of this section is Fenny Lock, at 1ft the smallest drop on the Grand Union. This was a late addition to the overall plan, introduced to avoid a long embankment north of the lock in notoriously unstable ground. They tried without one at first, but they couldn't keep the water in, hence the lock. The swing bridge on the lock is still in regular use by the residents of the lock cottages but should be open to navigation, and should be left that way.
We are now into the Milton Keynes conurbation, passing the villages of Simpson, Woughton, Woolstone and Great Linford, all of which date from very much earlier times. Plenty of new housing close by the canal, but plenty of green open spaces too. Milton Keynes Marina, N of bridge 89 offers all services and moorings too, along with a new canalside pub that replaced the original new pub that burnt down in the mid-90's. Passing under numerous new concrete bridges carrying the 'H' roads of the MK grid system (the H stands for horizontal, whilst the vertical roads are V), at bridge 82 we pass the site of the 2000 National Waterways Festival, whilst on the non-towpath side are a few visitor moorings that offer the best access to the city centre.
Shortly after Pennylands, a private backwater built in the 80's, is Lionhearts Cruising Club (AWCC affiliated) and
just behind their
clubhouses are the two remaining brick kilns, remnants of 19th century canalside
industry. Round the corner is Giffard Park, a newish pub with adjacent water
point and sanitary station. Around the next corner is Linford Wharf, junction
with the Newport Pagnell branch. 
The towpath bridge
(pictured right) disappeared many years ago
but a new development is about to hide the last signs of the branch, apart from
the winding hole opposite. Under bridge 77 and we are into Great Linford, with
the park on the left and a few visitor moorings. It is worth stopping here to
explore the park which has a large number of exotic trees, walk round and see
the 17thC manor house and almshouses and St Andrews Church dating from the
12thC with traditional churchyard complete with yew trees. In the village
high street (at the end of the park) there is the village cricket green opposite
the village pub.
Around the next corner is bridge 76A, one of the few remaining artefacts of the Wolverton to Newport Pagnell railway. The original 1846 survey and plans for the railway had it running under the canal but by the time it was built in 1865 Wolverton station had been relocated on the new by-pass line and the levels had to be completely revised. Next to the bridge is the Black Horse pub with well kept towpath moorings. Previously, for a few years, the Proud Perch, it has now reverted to its historic name. Under the road bridge (No 76) we pass the Black Horse long term moorings.
We have now moved outside Milton Keynes for a brief period, on an embankment high above the Great Ouse valley. The long Target Turn was the subject of a lengthy closure over the winter of 2002/03 whilst parts of the structure were rebuilt as a major breach was feared. Bridge 74 brings us back into MK and the village of New Bradwell. Keep to the centre of the channel in this section as it is badly in need of dredging and groundings are an everyday occurrence! Just before bridge 72 is a privately constructed dry dock in the back garden of a house, and under the bridge is the New Inn pub and moorings on the towpath for shopping in the village. Behind the pub is the Railway Walk redway, one of a network of footpaths across the city; this one follows the trackbed of the Wolverton to Newport Pagnell railway, and just under the road bridge is the platform structure of Bradwell station. The new houses next door to the New Inn are built on the site of old lime kilns, and around the corner, just past the winding hole, is Grafton Street Aqueduct alongside which is the 19thC Bradwell Windmill. The aqueduct was built at the start of the 1990's over one of the MK grid roads, a pleasant alternative to the vast concrete overbridges further south.
We are now heading into Wolverton and as we turn the corner we are faced with the railway high up on a brick embankment. A foot tunnel leads under the railway to the offside of the canal, for no obvious reason except that it marks the junction of the branch railway with the main line. The canal then passes under the railway, and there is little sense of the enormity of the railway works that once surrounded the area. The heritage is remembered by a mural on the old retaining wall of the works, the work of Bill Billings and the MK IWA back in the mid 80's and regularly touched up by subsequent members of the branch. Just before the road bridge on the offside is a strange wooded area known as the Secret Garden. This was the site of four large Victorian villas, built by the railway company for the work's managers. Demolished in the 1960's, work is now underway to tidy the area up. On the towpath side we are alongside Wolverton Station, served by Silverlink, and the most convenient link to the railway network on the Grand Union. This is also the stopping off point for Wolverton town centre and the local Tesco.
Marvellous derelict railway buildings on the offside as we pass under a couple more railway lines, serving the works and still in occasional use, the first of which is the original line of the London to Birmingham railway. At bridge 78 is the Galleon pub (formerly the Locomotive Inn) with moorings alongside the garden. The builders merchant next door is built on the site of Old Wolverton Wharf, and ahead of us is the long straight to Cosgrove Lock, though our journey ends at the Iron Trunk Aqueduct, the boundary with the IWA Northampton Branch. Don't pass by without stopping though; take a walk down and through the two foot tunnels under the canal, one on our side (which gives access to the river), one on their side (which doesn't).
History The Route Pubs Services Shopping Boat Hire Stoppages
CANALSIDE PUBS & RESTAURANTS
The Red Lion - by Br 130 (MP 54-55). Unspoilt village pub with interesting selection of real ales. Home cooked food 7 days (but not Sun night). Bar billiards.
Duke of Wellington - Pitstone, close by Br 126 (MP 52-53). Friendly village pub selling Pedigree and London Pride. Good value well cooked meals served until 20.45
Carpenters Arms - not really canalside, being 10 minutes walk E from Br 120 (MP 49-50), but worth the effort. Wonderful 16thC thatched village pub with excellent food from extensive varied menu, but not the cheapest in the area. Local real ales. Booking advisable (01525 220563)
Grove Lock - alongside Grove Lock (MP 47 - 48). Converted, refurbished, and much extended lock-keepers cottage selling Fullers London Pride and providing food 7 days. Has the feel of a new pub rather than a heritage one, and don't expect to see any canal related memorabilia
New Waterfront - Linslade, by Br 114 (MP 46) - information wanted please
Bedford Arms - Linslade, just over Br 114 (MP 46). Pleasant pub with food 7 days.
Globe Inn - Linslade, canalside S of Br 111 (MP 45). Moorings. Classic much photographed canal pub. Children's play area. Restaurant and bar meals 7 days.
Three Locks - Soulbury, alongside the middle of the three locks (MP 42-43). Good moorings at top of flight, might be congested at bottom. Food 7 days.
Bridge Inn - Fenny Stratford, by Br 96 (MP 38-39). Reasonably priced restaurant with a large conservatory overlooking the canal. Mooring. Visit their website here
Red Lion - alongside Fenny Stratford Lock. No food last time I stopped there, but that was a while ago. Anyone want to update this? The pub gave its name to Lionhearts Cruising Club who were originally based just above the lock on the offside. Moved on a couple of times since, they now have a very nice setting just S of Great Linford.
Plough - Simpson, between Br 91 & Br 92 (MP 37). Moorings at end of garden. Restaurant as well as bar meals.
Peartree - Peartree Bridge, canalside at Milton Keynes Marina (MP 36). Moorings. Toby Inns Carvery.
Barge - Woolstone, 3 or 4 minutes walk E of Br 83 (MP 35). Good varied menu
Giffard Park - by Br 78 (MP 32-33). Moorings. Newish pub with food 7 days.
Black Horse - Great Linford, by Br 76 (MP 31-32). Moorings. Canalside terrace. Food 7 days. Recently refurbished and reverted to its original name, having been the Proud Perch for a brief period in its long history. Now has an unwritten dress code, so its pot luck whether they'll allow you the privilege of dining there, even on the canalside terrace. Definitely don't think of going there wearing any kind of team sports shirt.
New Inn - by Br 72 (MP29-30). Moorings. Unspoilt stone-clad Charles Wells pub with guest ales. Large canalside garden. Now operating a carvery restaurant. Last food orders 8.45pm. Quiz night Wednesdays. Folk evening last Monday of month.
Galleon - by Br 68 (MP 28). Moorings. Food 7 days. Recent change of management - update wanted please
History The Route Pubs Services Shopping Boat Hire Stoppages
BOATYARDS
Pitstone Wharf (by Br 126, MP 53-53); 01296 661920; Gas, water, elsan Note: No Diesel available
Wyvern Shipping: (between Br 114 & Leighton Lock, MP 45-46); 01525 372 355; all services, repairs, boat painting;
Willowbridge Enterprises: (between Br 99 & 102, MP 40-41); 01908 643 242; all services, chandlery, repairs, slipway
Milton Keynes Marina: (offline between Br 88 & 89, MP36); 01908 672672; all services, repairs, moorings
NB Ascot & Beverley - Diesel & coal - somewhere in Milton Keynes depending on the mood
PUMP OUTS
Wyvern Shipping - as above
Willowbridge Enterprises - as above
Milton Keynes Marina - as above
WATER POINTS
BW Marsworth Depot - offside just S of Br 130 - MP Also refuse & Elsan
Slapton - Towpath - just above lock
Leighton Buzzard - Towpath, just S of Br 114 - MP Also refuse (other side of bridge) & Elsan
Soulbury - Towpath - just below bottom lock
Fenny Stratford - Offside - between railway bridge and lock
Giffard Park - Towpath, just N of Br 78. Also toilets and Elsan
Great Linford - Offside - N of bridge 77 - on visitor moorings for manor and grounds
Cosgrove - Towpath, just S of lock
Cosgrove - Towpath, short way N of lock. Also refuse and Elsan. Also recycling bins
History The Route Pubs Services Shopping Boat Hire Stoppages
Leighton Buzzard - visitor moorings N of Br 114 - note shopper moorings alongside Tesco 2 hours max. The town is east of the canal about 6 or 7 minutes walk. Tesco is 24 hours and has a dispensing chemist The town is an attractive market town with a full range of shops, hotel, restaurants. the railway station is in Linslade!
Linslade - West of the canal at Br 114 - local shops and takeaways and a couple of decent pubs. Famed for Wyvern Shipping and The Great Train Robbery
Fenny Stratford/Bletchley - Fenny Stratford local centre is just by Br 96. Bletchley town centre and railway station are another 10-15 minutes away and it is better to ask directions rather than try and explain them here.
Woolstone - East from Br 83, 3 mins walk - local shop opposite the pub
Milton Keynes - Huge covered shopping centre, reputedly the largest in Europe, and large market stall area about ten minutes walk the canal. Moor on the offside just N of Br 82A on the visitor moorings (opposite the site of the future junction with B & MK waterway) and head for big dome. Major shops, theatre, cinemas, restaurants and the Xscape ski slope and entertainment centre. The railway station is not really convenient for the canal - Leighton Buzzard and Wolverton are much closer to the canal but are not served by Virgin.
New Bradwell - one minute from the towpath opposite the New Inn. Victorian village built as overflow housing for the Wolverton railway works. During 2008 there will be celebrations to mark the 150th anniversary of the village. The Co-Op (7 till 11) has been since the late 1800s. Newsagent, post office, chemist, take-aways (Chinese (2), Indian (2), kebab, fish & chips), off licence.
Wolverton - moor up by the railway station, climb the station steps and turn right. Tesco (24-hrs) and wide range of local shops including the Agora Centre covered market type shopping. Wolverton dates from Neolithic times, but the small village became a major town in the middle of the mid-19th century when it was chosen in 1837 by the London and Birmingham Railway as the site for its main railway engineering works. In 1846 the LNWR was formed and in 1862 locomotive building came to an end when it was concentrated at the former Grand Junction Railway works at Crewe, and Wolverton became the centre for coach building. In its heyday the works covered a vast area and even today, under the stewardship of GEC Alsthom it continues to provide local employment. The works are also the home of the royal train, and the historic relevance is remembered by the MK IWA's mural depicting various aspects of the railway.
History The Route Pubs Services Shopping Boat Hire Stoppages
Day Boat self-steer hire
The Mary Jane; 07721 025325; Black Horse moorings, Great Linford (by Proud Perch) (also ½-day hire)
Grebe Canal Cruises, Pitstone Wharf 01296 661920 www.grebecanalcruises.co.uk
Canal Holidays
Wyvern Shipping, Linslade: 01525 372 355 www.canalholidays.co.uk
Grebe Canal Cruises, Pitstone Wharf 01296 661920 www.grebecanalcruises.co.uk
Boat trips
Grebe Canal Cruises, Pitstone Wharf 01296 661920 www.grebecanalcruises.co.uk
Elizabeth of Glamis, Cosgrove Lock: 07973 915652
History The Route Pubs Services Shopping Boat Hire Stoppages
2008
The winter 2008 closure programme is now complete. Details of the winter 2009 programme will be listed as soon as they become available
More information on local stoppages and restrictions are listed on waterscape.com here, and the full national list here
